Amigurumi

Amigurumi Cute Snowman Free Crochet Pattern

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We will need:

Alize “Softy” (100% micropolyester, 115 m / 50 g) – 2 skeins of white and one skein of blue, hook No. 2, knitting needles No. 2.5 for knitting a cap.

For the nose: “Soso” Vita cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m / 50 g) – a little orange, hook No. 1.25.

5 cotter pins and 10 disks for attaching limbs and the head, I have 22 mm disks for handles, 30 mm for legs and 35 mm for the head (you can use any other method of attachment that is convenient for you).

Filler (holofiber).

On request – a copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm for the frame of the handles.

A piece of blue fleece for a vest and a cap trim (20 x 40 cm), two snowflake buttons for decoration, a blue cotton thread to trim the edge of a vest.

Eyes. Choose the size, color and shape at your discretion – this will determine the nature of your toy.

If desired, a dry pastel for tinting, you can tint in any other way familiar to you.

Using these materials, the snowman is 25 cm tall.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease (2 sc knit together)

inc – increase (knit 2 sc from one)

sl-st – slip-stich

ch – chain

knit – plain knitting

A digression for beginners, we knit correctly:

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

The description of the knitting of this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row throughout the knitting of the whole part does not shift and passes in a straight line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting column, the beginning of the row will shift right, so every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row an additional column of displacement, so that the beginning of the row was again in the same place. These additional columns in the description of the series are not taken into account.

Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know where exactly you should get the increase or decrease, and the elbow / knee will always be exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of the row when knitting in a spiral can be different for different yarns and for different density of knitting, therefore aligning the marker makes the description universal – from any yarn, in any hands you get exactly such a detail as it should be.

Stage 1. Pens

Pens begin to knit with mittens, a blue thread.

Thumb:

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2-3 rows (2 rows): 6 sc (6)

We fix the thread, cut it off.

Mitten:

The marker of the beginning of the row runs along the edge of the “palm” for the left handle and on the opposite side for the right handle.

1 row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc to the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

2 row: inc, sc, inc x 2, sc, inc x 2, 4 sc, inc (18)

3 row: inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (20)

4-7 rows (4 rows): 20 sc (20)

8 row: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (16)

9 row: 16 sc (16)

for the left handle:

10 row: 10 sc, 2 sc with thumb, 4 sc (16)

11 row: dec, (2 sc, dec) x 2, thumb dec x 2, 4 sc (13)

for the right handle:

10 row: 14 sc, 2 sc with thumb (16)

11 row: dec, (2 sc, dec) x 2, 4 sc, thumb dec x 2 (13)

then we knit both handles equally:

12 row: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc (12)

13 row: 12 sc (12)

14 row (behind the front wall of the loop): (sc, inc) x 6 (18)

15 row: (inc, 8 sc) x 2

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip. We stuff the mittens with filler.

We attach the white thread to the first left half loop of the 13th row and knit a handle:

16 row (according to the left half loops of the 13th row): 12 sc (12)

17-26 rows (10 rows): 12 sc (12)

27 row: inc, sc, inc x 2, sc, inc, 6 sc (16)

28 row: 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 9 sc (18)

29-31 rows (3 rows): 18 sc (18)

32 row: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 9 sc (16)

33 row: dec, sc, dec x 2, sc, dec, 6 sc (12)

We retreat 3 rows down, 3 loops from the marker to the right and insert a cotter pin with a disk (I have a 22 mm disk). You can insert wire into the handle to give it a curved shape. We fill the handle with filler.

34 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip. We knit the second handle in the same way.

2 stage. Legs

We start knitting from the foot. The marker of the beginning of the row runs in the middle of the heel.

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6-9 rows (4 rows): 30 sc (30)

10 row: 10 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, dec, 10 sc (27)

11 row: 27 sc (27)

12 row: 11 sc, dec, sc, dec, 11 sc (25)

13 row: 25 sc (25)

14 row: 11 sc, 3 sc together, 11 sc (23)

15-17 rows (3 rows): 23 sc (23)

We knit the heel:

18 row: 7 sc, 9 ch, 9 sc skip, 7 sc (23)

19 row: 7 sc in the foot, 9 sc in the chain of ch, 7 sc in the foot (23)

20 row: sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) x 4 (18)

21 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

22 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip. We fill the foot with filler.

We attach the thread to the last ch of the 19th row (for the left leg) and to the 1st missed sc of the 19th row (for the right leg) and knit the leg (the marker of the beginning of the row runs in the middle of the inside side of the leg):

23-24 rows (2 rows): 18 sc (18)

25 row: 4 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc (22)

26 row: 5 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc (26)

27 row: 5 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 3, 5 sc (30)

28-32 rows (5 rows): 30 sc (30)

33 row: 5 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 3, 5 sc (26)

34 row: 5 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) x 3, 4 sc (22)

We retreat 2 rows down and insert a cotter pin with a disk in the marker area (I have a 30 mm disk). We stuff the leg with filler.

35 row: 4 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, 4 sc (18)

36 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

37 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip. We knit the second leg in the same way.

3 stage. Body

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

7 row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8 row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

9 row: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10 row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

11 row: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

12 row: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 5, 5 sc (72)

13 row: (11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

14 row: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 5, 6 sc (84)

15-26 rows (12 rows): 84 sc (84)

Between the 13th and 14th rows, at a distance of approximately 11-12 loops from the marker, we insert the forelocks of the legs to the right and left, twist.

27 row: 23 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 3, 23 sc (80)

28 row: 5 sc, dec, 66 sc, dec, 5 sc (78)

29 row: 20 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 3, 20 sc (74)

30 row: 5 sc, dec, 60 sc, dec, 5 sc (72)

31 row: 20 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 3, 20 sc (68)

32 row: 4 sc, dec, 56 sc, dec, 4 sc (66)

33 row: 20 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 3, 20 sc (62)

34 row: 3 sc, dec, 52 sc, dec, 3 sc (60)

35 row: 14 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 14 sc (54)

36-42 rows (7 rows): 54 sc (54)

We retreat 6 rows down, 13 loops from the marker to the left (for the left handle) and right (for the right handle), insert the cotter pins, twist. We stuff the belly with filler, you can pour glass granulate.

43 row: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

44 row: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)

45 row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

46 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

We stuff the top of the body with a filler, very tightly. We insert a cotter pin with a disk for attaching the head (I have a 35 mm disk).

47 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

48 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

49 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

50 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

Stage 4. Head, nose, decoration

Head

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop 7 sc (7)

2 row: sc, (3 sc in one, sc) x 3 (13)

3 row: 2 sc, (3 sc in one, 3 sc) x 2, 3 sc in one, 2 sc (19)

4 row: 3 sc, 3 sc in one, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in one, 3 sc (25)

5 row: 4 sc, 3 sc in one, 6 sc, inc, sc, inc, 6 sc, 3 sc in one, 4 sc (31)

6 row: 5 sc, 3 sc in one, 8 sc, inc, sc, inc, 8 sc, 3 sc in one, 5 sc (37)

7 row: 6 sc, 3 sc in one, 10 sc, inc, sc, inc, 10 sc, 3 sc in one, 6 sc (43)

8 row: 8 sc, 3 sc in one, 11 sc, inc, sc, inc, 11 sc, 3 sc in one, 8 sc (49)

9 row: 10 sc, 3 sc in one, 12 sc, inc, sc, inc, 12 sc, 3 sc in one, 10 sc (55)

10 row: 10 sc, inc x 3, 13 sc, inc, sc, inc, 13 sc, inc x 3, 10 sc (63)

11 row: 10 sc, (inc, sc) x 3, inc, (14 sc, inc) x 2, (sc, inc) x 3, 10 sc (72)

12 row: 11 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 3, inc, 30 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 11 sc (80)

13 row: 11 sc, (inc, 3 sc) x 3, inc, 14 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3, 11 sc (90)

14-25 rows (12 rows): 90 sc (90)

26 row: 11 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x 3, dec, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) x 3, 11 sc (80)

27 row: 80 sc (80)

28 row: 11 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 3, dec, 30 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, 11 sc (72)

29 row: 72 sc (72)

30 row: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 5, 5 sc (66)

31 row: (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

32 row: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

33 row: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

34 row: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)

35 row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Between the 20th and 21st rows in the marker area, insert the body cotter pin, twist. We fill the head with filler.

36 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

37 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

38 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

Fill the filler to the end.

39 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

40 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

Nose

We knit with a Soso thread Vita cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m / 50 g), hook No. 1.25. The marker in this part can not be aligned.

1 row: 8 sc in amigurumi ring (8)

2 row: inc, 7 sc (9)

3 row: 2 sc, inc, 6 sc (10)

4 row: 4 sc, inc, 5 sc (11)

5 row: 6 sc, inc, 4 sc (12)

6 row: 8 sc, inc, 3 sc (13)

7 row: 10 sc, inc, 2 sc (14)

8 row: 12 sc, inc, sc (15)

9 row: 14 sc, inc (16)

10 row: 16 sc (16)

11 row: inc, 15 sc (17)

12 row: 2 sc, inc, 14 sc (18)

13 row: 4 sc, inc, 13 sc (19)

14 row: 6 sc, inc, 12 sc (20)

15 row: 8 sc, inc, 11 sc (21)

16 row: 10 sc, inc, 10 sc (22)

We fix the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing. We stuff the nose with the filler very tightly. Sewing brown thread embroider veins.

Decor

Sew the nose to the head evenly in the center, from where we started knitting.

We mark the points of the eye tightening (points 1 and 2) and the corners of the mouth (points 3 and 4). The eyes are pulled to the back, to the place of attachment of the head with the body: insert the needle at point 1 and withdraw at the place of attachment of the head with the body on the back, retreat one column, insert the needle and withdraw at point 1. Tighten the thread, repeat the tightening several times, fix the thread . Similarly, we tighten the second eye.

With a brown floss thread, we tighten the corners of the mouth to the eyes – we make stitches between points 1 and 3 and points 2 and 4, at the same time we embroider the line of the mouth, then embroider the eyebrows.

We fasten our eyes, tint the snowman in any way familiar to you.

Our snowman is ready! It remains to dress him up a bit, but a little later

5 stage. Hat and vest

Cap

We knit a thread Alize “Softy” blue, knitting needles number 2.5.

We collect 76 loops.

1-10 rows (10 rows): 76 knit (76)

11 row: (17 knit, 2 knit together) x 4 (72)

12-14 rows (3 rows): 72 knit (72)

15 row: (16 knit, 2 knit together) x 4 (68)

16-18 rows (3 rows): 68 knit (68)

19 row: (15 knit, 2 knit together) x 4 (64)

20-22 rows (3 rows): 64 knit (64)

23 row: (14 knit, 2 knit together) x 4 (60)

24-26 rows (3 rows): 60 knit (60)

27 row: (13 knit, 2 knit together) x 4 (56)

28-30 rows (3 rows): 56 knit (56)

31 rows: 13 knit, 2 knit together, 26 knit, 2 knit together, 13 knit (54)

32-34 rows (3 rows): 54 knit (54)

35 row: (25 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (52)

36-38 rows (3 rows): 52 knit (52)

39 row: 12 knit, 2 knit together, 24 knit, 2 knit together, 12 knit (50)

40-42 rows (3 rows): 50 knit (50)

43 row: (23 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (48)

44-46 rows (3 rows): 48 knit (48)

47 row: 11 knit, 2 knit together, 22 knit, 2 knit together, 11 knit (46)

48-50 rows (3 rows): 46 knit (46)

51 row: 21 knit, 2 knit together, 23 knit (45)

52-54 rows (3 rows): 45 knit (45)

55 row: 43 knit, 2 knit together (44)

56-58 rows (3 rows): 44 knit (44)

59 row: 10 knit, 2 knit together, 32 knit (43)

60-62 rows (3 rows): 43 knit (43)

63 row: 31 knit, 2 knit together, 10 knit (42)

64-66 rows (3 rows): 42 knit (42)

67 row: 19 knit, 2 knit together, 21 knit (41)

68-70 rows (3 rows): 41 knit (41)

71 rows: 39 knit, 2 knit together (40)

72-74 rows (3 rows): 40 knit (40)

75 row: 9 knit, 2 knit together, 29 knit (39)

76-78 rows (3 rows): 39 knit (39)

79 row: 28 knit, 2 knit together, 9 knit (38)

80-82 rows (3 rows): 38 knit (38)

83 row: (17 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (36)

84 row: 36 knit (36)

85 row: 8 knit, 2 knit together, 16 knit, 2 knit together, 8 knit (34)

86 row: 34 knit (34)

87 row: (15 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (32)

88 row: 32 knit (32)

89 row: 7 knit, 2 knit together, 14 knit, 2 knit together, 7 knit (30)

90 row: 30 knit (30)

91 row: (13 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (28)

92 row: 28 knit (28)

93 row: 6 knit, 2 knit together, 12 knit, 2 knit together, 6 knit (26)

94 row: 26 knit (26)

95 row: (11 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (24)

96 row: 24 knit (24)

97 row: 5 knit, 2 knit together, 10 knit, 2 knit together, 5 knit (22)

98 row: 22 knit (22)

99 row: (9 knit, 2 knit together) x 2 (20)

100 row: 20 knit (20)

101 row: 4 knit, 2 knit together, 8 knit, 2 knit together, 4 knit (18)

102 row: 18 knit (18)

Cut the thread, pass through the remaining loops and tighten. Fasten, hide the tip. We make a small fan and sew it to the cap.

From the fleece we cut a lapel for a hat. We measure the girth of the resulting cap at the beginning of knitting, add 1 cm to the seam – this will be the length of the lapel. Lapel width = (desired lapel width) x 2 + 2 cm. Cut a strip, sew on the short side. We turn the cap inside out, apply a strip of fleece so that the wrong side of the strip comes into contact with the wrong side of the cap, and the front side of the strip looks at us. Approximately 1 cm of fleece strips enters the hat.

Sew the fleece lapel to the cap.

We turn the cap on the front side. We bend the lapel inward, stab with pins, sew along the edge to the cap with a hidden seam. Sew a button on the lapel.

Vest

If the size of your snowman coincides with mine (height 25 cm), then just print out the pattern 1: 1. If your snowman is larger or smaller, then increase / decrease the pattern directly on the monitor, adjusting to the size you need (you can navigate by the maximum width of the back – measure the width of the back of your snowman from the middle of the left leg to the middle of the right one). Redraw the pattern on paper and cut it out.

Transfer the patterns to the fleece. I recommend that you first sew a vest from any unnecessary fabric that you do not mind throwing away. You can quickly stitch the details with a notched seam and try on. After trying on, you will immediately see which places on the pattern you may need to correct.

So, we transfer the patterns to the fabric. We cut, but not along the outlined contour, but by making allowances for the seams (we make an allowance for the side and shoulder seams). If you will sew on a typewriter – it is better to leave an allowance of 1 cm (then you can cut the excess fabric), if you sew manually – 5 mm is enough.

Sew shoulder and side seams. We sew the vest around the perimeter with a blue thread with an edge seam (see the diagram below), we also sew the edges of the armhole. We dress a vest on a snowman, sew a button. That’s all! Our snow man is ready! And now we all get out of the bushes and show up! Really looking forward to your snowmen! I’ll save and publish all in our gallery!

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